The Checkered Giant rabbit is a breed of rabbit developed in Europe. In the UK the breed is known as Giant Papillon. Checkered Giants are one of 45 breeds of domestic rabbits recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Mature Checkered Giant bucks should weigh at least 11 pounds, and mature does 12 pounds, but there is no specified maximum weight. The Checkered Giant is outweighed by the Giant Chinchilla and Flemish Giant. The Checkered Giant is considered a show rabbit rather than a meat rabbit. The Checkered Giant is one of only 11 breeds with defined markings. Body type markings differ between European and American Checkered Giants, although they are considered the same breed.

Appearance

Recognized Colors of The Checkered Giant rabbit Varieties: Black, blue Showroom weights of the Checkered Giant rabbit Senior Bucks-8 months of age and over, min weight 11 lbs Senior Does-8 months of age and over, min weight 12 lbs. Int Bucks and Does-6-8 months of age, min weight 9 lbs. Jr. Bucks & Does-under 6 months of age, 6 lbs and over Pre-Jr. Bucks & Does-under 3 months of age, not less than 4 lbs. and not over 7 lbs. Each sex & variety (Black-Blue) judged separately.

Feed and housing

Commercial rabbit pellets are often recommended, though this is a disputed claim amongst rabbit rescue shelters and commercial breeders. Pellets are high in fat, which will render a fatter rabbit, but is not a healthy choice for longevity concerns.) Feed 1/2 cup of pellets per 5 pounds of body weight every day. Many breeders find it can be hard to keep weight on rabbits that are not offered free choice pellets. For rabbits under 8 months of age, feed unlimited plain alfalfa pellets. Free choice hay, such as timothy-grass, should be unlimited and changed daily. Alfalfa hay should not be offered free choice to rabbits over 8 months of age because it is too rich in calcium. Many rabbits do very well in the home. They can be litter box trained and are quite fastidious groomers. Be aware that rabbits love to chew so make sure all wires are safely hidden or in protective plastic covers and understand that some of your furniture may be nibbled. If you choose to cage your rabbit, make sure the cage is at least 3 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet. If the cage has a wire bottom make certain you give the rabbit a plank or sea grass mats to stand on so his feet won’t get damaged from being on the wire all the time. Provide a hide box or shelter and plenty of straw for bedding.

Common diseases and disorders

As with other rabbits, this breed does not do well in high or low temperatures. Sore or abscessed feet are common when housed only on wire with no solid surface to rest on.

The Beveren is one of the oldest and largest breeds of fur rabbits. It was first bred in Beveren, a small town near Antwerp in Belgium. Their coats can be blue, white, black, brown and lilac, though not all of these varieties are ARBA-recognized. There is a rare variety called the Pointed Beveren, which comes in the same colors but has white tipped hairs. The blue variety is the original.

The Beveren rabbit is a rare breed. They are well tempered, clean, and smart. Beverens are full of energy, and love to explore the outdoors. They are recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association in three different colors, Black, Blue, and White. The coat should be dense and glossy with a gentle rollback fur type. Fur length is rather long having an average of 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. This large breed has a pronounced mandolin shape with mature bucks at 8 to 11 pounds and does at 10 to 12 pounds. Their litters are large, the young grow fairly fast, and the does are typically docile and make good mothers.

General type

Body

30 Points. The body type is to be of mandolin shape. Body is to be medium length, with broad, meaty back and a deep, firm loin. Shoulders are to be strong and firm, with a well-sprung rib cage, tapering slightly from broader, smooth hips. The body should present a definite arch when viewed from the side. The topline is to be a smooth curve, starting at the back of the shoulder, rising to a high point over the middle of the back, and curving over the hips to complete the arch.

• Faults - Extremely long or short body length; flat, lacking arched outline.

Head

10 Points. The head is to be full from top to bottom, with a well-filled face and jaws. Head is to present a distinct curvature between the eyes and nose with a medium broad muzzle. Size of the head is to conform to the body more massive in bucks than in does. A medium dewlap is permissible on does.

• Faults - Narrow pinched head; lack of curvature in profile; excessive dewlap.

Ears

10 points. ears are to be well furred and carried in a "V" shaped manner. Ideal length is to be 5 or more inches in seniors and intermediates.

• Faults - Thin ears; very heavy ears; weak earbase.
• Disqualification from Competition: Ear length less than 4-3/4" on seniors or intermediates.

Feet and legs

5 points. Front feet and legs are to be straight, strong and of medium bone. Hind feet and legs are to be straight, powerful, and well furred. Legs are to be medium bone, in proportion to size of body. In whites, toenails are to be white or flesh colored. In blacks and blues, toenails should be dark.

• Disqualification from Competition: Non-matching toenails on the same foot or corresponding foot.

Fur

20 points. The coat is to be very dense and glossy. The guard hairs should be plentiful and of fine diameter, but strong enough to fall or roll gently back into position when stroked from tail to head. Density and texture share equal importance. Ideal fur length is between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 inches. (Recommended for showing in breed fur.)

• Faults - Soft; woolly; fur; harsh, heavy fur.
• Disqualification from Competition: Fur under 1 inch or over 2 inches in length.

Color

20 Points.

Black

Color is to be deep, glossy, jet black, carried well down into a blue undercolor.

• Eyes - dark brown.
• Faults - Stray white hairs; rust; hutch stain; lack of even color.
• Disqualification from Competition: Any other color eyes; white spot(s).

Blue

Color is to be a clean shade of light lavender blue, carried well down into the base, free from silvering.

• Eyes - blue-gray, with ruby cast to pupil permissible
• Faults - Stray white hairs; rust; hutch stain; lack of even color; any other shade of blue than described.
• Disqualification from Competition: Any other color eyes; white spot(s).

[edit] White

Color is to be pure white, with no ivory cast.

• Eyes - to be a brilliant blue.
• Faults - Hutch stain.
• Disqualification from Competition: Any other color eyes.

Condition

5 Points.

• Faults - Soft and flabby flesh.

Appearance

The Californian rabbit has erect ears and is moderate in size, weighing around 7 to 10 pounds (3.5 to 4.75 kilograms). The original coloration of this breed was very similar to the Himalayan rabbit, with a predominantly white body and black on the feet, nose, ears and tail. They have pink eyes.

Feed and housing

Commercial rabbit pellets are often recommended, though this is a disputed claim amongst rabbit rescue shelters and commercial breeders. Pellets are high in fat, which will render a fatter rabbit, but is not a healthy choice for longevity concerns.) Feed 1/2 cup of pellets per 5 pounds of body weight every day. Ensure a steady supply of fresh water or the rabbit may not eat the feed ration. For rabbits under 8 months of age, feed unlimited plain alfalfa pellets. House rabbits may be fed 2 cups of fresh rinsed greens, vegetables (stay away from greens high in iron) should be given daily, and fresh fruit sparingly. Free choice hay, such as timothy-grass, should be unlimited and changed daily. Alfalfa hay should not be offered free choice to rabbits over 8 months of age because it is too rich in calcium.

Many rabbits do very well in the home. They can be litter box trained and are quite fastidious groomers. Be aware that rabbits love to chew so make sure all wires are safely hidden or in protective plastic covers and understand that some of your furniture, books and baseboards may be nibbled. They can be contained in an exercise pen to prevent damage to your house. If you choose to cage your rabbit, make sure the cage is at least 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet. If the cage has a wire bottom make certain you give the rabbit a plank or sea grass mats to stand on so his feet won’t get damaged from being on the wire all the time. Provide a hide box or shelter and plenty of straw for bedding.

Californians are an excellent meat rabbit breed. They produce large litters of 8-12 kits, which have a fast growth rate to fryer size (4-5lbs)in 8-12 weeks. Californians are a breed developed for show and commercial purposes. They do not always make the best pets for small children. They are very strong, and can be dangerous.

Common diseases and disorders

As with other rabbits, Californians do not do well in high or low temperatures. They are prone to hairball obstructions and matted coats if not cared for properly. When the rabbit is molting, dead hair can be removed with a slicker brush. Other health concerns include ear mites, Pasteurella, respiratory disease, dental problems, urinary bladder stones and fractured backs. Be quick to notice any changes in diet or litter box habits and contact a rabbit veterinarian immediately. The average life span of a breeding Californian rabbit is 5 to 10 years. By spaying or neutering early in life, you can increase their life expectancy to around 10 years.

The Dutch rabbit, easily identifiable by its characteristic colour pattern, was once the most popular of all rabbit breeds. However, after dwarf rabbits were developed, the popularity of the Dutch rabbit dwindled. Nevertheless, the Dutch rabbit remains one of the top ten most popular breeds worldwide.

"Although the name suggests that the Dutch rabbit is from the Netherlands, it was actually developed in England. During the 1830s rabbits were imported to England from Ostend in the Netherlands every week for the meat market. Amongst these rabbits was a breed known as the Petite Brabancon, as it originated from Brabant in Flanders. The Petite Brabancon may still be found in paintings from the fifteenth century. The Dutch rabbit has its genetic roots in this old breed. The Petite Brabancon would often display Dutch markings, and breeders in England selected those with even markings, fixing those markings into the breed we know today."

Dutch are popular both as pets and among show breeders.

Appearence:

The American Rabbit Breeders Association standard calls for a small to medium rabbit. Dutch are a 4-class breed. Junior bucks and does are those under 6 months of age with a minimum weight of 1.75 lbs. Seniors are 6 months of age and over, weighing between 3.5 and 5.5 lbs, with 4.5 being the ideal weight. Dutch are to have a compact, well-rounded body; rounded head; short, stocky, well-furred ears; and short, glossy "flyback" fur. Six colors (in conjunction with white) are recognized for show:

Black, a dense, glossy black

Blue, a medium blue-gray

Chocolate, a rich chocolate brown

Gray, (UK: Brown Grey) an Agouti color similar to that of the American cottontail, with bands of color on the hairshaft which produce a ring effect when blown into

Steel, (UK: Steel Grey) a black color with off-white tips to the hairshaft

Tortoise, (UK: Tortoiseshell) a bright, clean orange with slate blue shadings along the ears, whisker beds and hindquarters.

In the UK, Yellow (US: Gold) and Pale Grey (no US equivalent) Dutch are also recognized for show. New varieties under development in the United States include Harlequin (UK: Tri Coloured Dutch) (a pattern of black and orange patches) and Chinchilla.

Despite its popularity, the Dutch rabbit has not changed much over the years. The most striking aspect of the breed is the marking pattern:

The blaze is an even wedge of white running up the rabbit's face. It is shaped by the cheeks which are the rounded circles of color on either side of the face. The neck marking is a white wedge on the back of the head. The saddle is to be a straight line running behind the shoulders and continuing underneath the rabbit to the undercut across the belly. The stops are located on the rear feet, which should be white from the toes to a point one third the length of the foot.

The American standard allots 50 of the 100 total points to markings, 25 points to general type, 10 points to color, 10 points to fur and 5 to condition.

The BRC and UKDRC Standard

Ears short and strong, not pointed, and fairly broad at their base. (10 points)

Eyes bold and bright, fairly large. (5 points)

Blaze wedged shaped, carrying up to a point between ears.

Cheeks as round as possible, and coming as near to the whiskers without touching. Also covering the line of the jawbone. (15 points with Blaze)

Clean Neck means free from coloured fur immediately behind the ears. (10 points)

Saddle is the junction between the white and coloured fur on the back. This line to continue right round the animal in an even straight line. (10 points)

Undercut continuation of the saddle. To be as near up to the front legs as possible without touching them. (10 points)

Stops white markings on the hind feet, about 1 1/4 inches in length, and to cut cleanly round the foot in a similar manner to the saddle and undercut. (15 points)

Colour see below for colours. (10 points)

Shape (type) and Condition compact, cobby, rounded. Shape also means type. Weight and condition also have a bearing on shape or type. The ideal weight of an Adult Dutch should be 41/2 to 5lbs. Hard and firm in flesh. Back well covered with firm flesh. Not baggy in belly. Skin tight, gloss on coat, bright eyes, lively, alert. (15 points)

Classes for young Dutch rabbits are recommended by the UKDRC as being for Dutch rabbits under five months of age.

Disqualifications: Wrong coloured eyes (see Colour Standard). Discoloured or wall eyes (pale blue iris), specked eyes (pale blue spots or specks on the iris). Coloured fur on the White part or white patches on the coloured parts. Flesh markings (usually on ears). Trimming (attempts to straighten out irregularities, dyeing white spots on coloured fur etc). Malocclusion and mutilated teeth.

Black - Deep, solid and carrying well down to the skin, with blue under colour, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and mealiness or flecking. Eyes dark hazel.

Blue - Deep, solid , slate blue, colour to carry well down to the skin. Blue under colour, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and flecked or mealy coat. Eyes dark blue.

Steel Grey - Dark steel grey merging to pale slate blue in the undercolour. The whole interspersed with black guard hairs. The medium bright and evenly ticked shade is the one to aim for and the extreme tips of the fur will be tipped with steel blue or grey. The mixture to carry well down the sides, flanks and hind feet. Belly colour will be a lighter shade varying with the top colour. Upper part of the tail to match the body colour; underside to tone with the belly colour. Ears to match body, Eyes deep hazel.

Brown Grey - Slate blue at the base followed by a band of yellowy orange then a black line, finishing by light or nut brown tips to the fur. The whole interspersed by black guard hairs. That is the impression gained when the fur of the brown grey is parted. The general impression should be light or nut brown on ears, cheeks, body, hind feet and top of tail, the whole ticked with black hairs. Belly colour and eye circles (small as possible) bright straw colour. A lighter shade permissible under tail. Eyes hazel, deeper the better.

Pale Grey - Top colour biscuit carrying well down and merging in to pale slate at the base, the whole interspersed with black ticking. The general impression should be biscuit tipped with black on ears, cheeks, body and top of tail. Belly colour white with pale slate undercolour. Eye circle white but ideally non-existent or as small as possible. Body colour should be present on hind feet. Underside of tail white. Eyes hazel.

Tortoiseshell - An even shade of orange top colour to carry well down and shading off to a lighter colour to the skin. Ears, belly and under the tail blue-black. Cheeks and hind quarters (flanks) shaded or toned with blue black. Eyes hazel, the deeper the better.

Chocolate - Deep solid dark chocolate, colour carrying well down to the skin. Undercolour to match the top colour as near as possible. The deeper the under colour the better the top will appear. Free from white hairs and mealiness. Eyes hazel, the deeper the better.

Yellow - An even shade of yellow throughout. The exact shade is not so important as that the colour should be even and extend to the belly or undercut and no eye circles. In fact, a self colour free from chinchillation on cheeks and hind feet. Eyes hazel.

Description of terms used: Flecking or Mealiness - Individual hairs more than one colour in selfs. e.g. Blacks should be black at the tip of the fur, that colour carrying down the fur as far as possible, then merging into blue. In flecked or mealy exhibits the individual fur would be black, then dark grey, then a deeper shade before merging into blue at the base.

Chinchillation - A mixture of colours ticked with a darker shade, often found on the cheeks of yellows. The steel, pale and brown grey are chinchillated varieties to a certain extent.

The BRC has a separate standard for Tri Coloured Dutch.

Dwarf rabbits are a variety of domestic European rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus). Dwarf rabbits are much smaller than normal rabbits, but are capable of interbreeding with them, so are not recognized as a separate species.

Purebred dwarf rabbits weigh 0.7-1.4kg. Their heads and eyes are disproportionately large with respect to their body, and their ears are small and carried high on the head. The exception to this is the dwarf lop — a cross between the French lop and the dwarf — which is both heavier (3.0-4.0 lb) than a standard dwarf and has long, dangling ears. Many different colorations make up breeds in dwarf rabbits, such as Himalayan, Red, Siamese, Chinchilla, Blue, and White-tipped Black.

Dwarf rabbits generally have the same behavioral traits as other domestic rabbits. They can be housetrained and can be socialized with dogs, cats and hamsters. Also, its a good idea if they're babies to feed them with just born nursing bottles for pets.

Most of the rabbits sold as dwarves in pet stores are not true dwarfs, but crosses between a dwarf and a standard rabbit. These "mongrels" are hardier, but grow to a larger size and lack the characteristic small head and low carriage of the true dwarf.

Like other domestic rabbits, dwarf rabbits consume grasses, grains, and other succulent greens. Their digestive system is somewhat less hardy than European rabbits, and many leafy vegetables such as lettuce and cabbage can give them health problems. Nuts and seeds are also harmful to dwarf rabbits.

The existence of a dwarf gene in the European rabbit is not disputed, but the existence of the dwarf gene in certain breeds of European rabbit is not always clear. It may be present in some lines but not other lines of the same breed. Breeding two rabbits that both carry the dwarf gene may result in a homozygous dwarf offspring, that is commonly termed a "peanut". Peanuts (about the size of a peanut) are very small and deformed baby rabbits that will be born with a very large head, almost no ears and their back legs often cross. Peanuts usually live for a few days but sometimes will last a couple of weeks. The birth of a peanut proves that the dwarf gene was present in both parents.

Breeds that are known to carry the dwarf gene are the Netherland Dwarf, the Dwarf Hotot, the U.S. Polish Rabbit and most breeds with "dwarf" in the name. Small breeds that some claim do not carry the dwarf gene are the Britannia Petite, Tan and Elfin Rabbit. It is unclear if the "mini sized breeds", such as the Mini Satin and Mini Lop, carry the dwarf gene.

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If you have some spare time on your hands, you may wish to consider keeping a pet to keep you occupied. There are many types of pets that you can choose to keep. There are pets that are bigger and more aggressive (like dogs), and there are pets that are smaller and rather docile (like rabbits). Of course, your final decision will depend on your own personality as well as your preferences. If you prefer something that is small, adorable, and easy to maintain, perhaps the dwarf rabbit is a good choice.

Owning your first rabbit.

Even if you have no experience whatsoever with rearing pets, you should still be able to keep a rabbit without much problems. That's because rabbits are very easy to keep and maintain. Most of the time, they are kept in cages or play pens when you are not around. Everyday, during your spare time, you can take them out of their confined area and let them have a bit of exercise. Just like human beings, rabbits also need to exercise in order to stay healthy. Let your rabbits have a good run in the backyard or in a field.

You can also let your rabbit loose when it's indoors. But rabbits are not like dogs. You can't really potty train rabbits. But the good thing about rabbit is that it is naturally a clean animal. Very often, you will find your rabbit going back to its designated area to eliminate stool. Still, you can't expect your rabbit to be well behaved all the time. After all, they are just cute little animals. Once in a while, they will urinate or defecate while running around in the house. So if you let them loose indoors, be prepared to clean up after them every now and then.

In addition, rabbits also tend to shed hair. So try not to let them loose on expensive furniture sets like sofas and beds. Otherwise, you may have a hard time trying to get rid of the loose hair.

Owning your very first dwarf rabbit.

There are many different breeds of rabbits. Mixed breed rabbits are the most commonly seen, and they are also the most affordable. They come in a variety of different colors. Often, because they are of a mixed breed, the colors are mixed as well. But that doesn't make them less adorable. Their nature remains essentially the same.

Pure breed rabbits are more rare, and they are also more costly. Some of these rabbits come with very rare coats of fur. Of course, rabbits that are rare and hard to find cost a lot more than ordinary rabbits.

Dwarf rabbits are a special breed, and they are perfect as pets. They are known as the Britannia Petite or the Netherland Dwarf. And they weigh just around two and a half pounds for a mature adult. In fact, they are so small that you can easily place it on one palm!

Taking care of a dwarf rabbit is essentially similar to taking care of an ordinary rabbit. You need to keep its home clean, give it plenty of vegetables to eat, and spend some time playing with your beloved pet. You will find its companionship to be most enjoyable.

For more information on Dwarf Rabbits or Dwarf Bunnies, please visit our website.

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Blue of Sint-Niklaas is a Flemish rabbit breed. It has been bred since the 19th century, near the city of Sint-Niklaas, to supply the local fur-industry, and is thereby one of the oldest fur-rabbit breeds of the world. The Van Beveren, also a fur-rabbit breed, is family and has been bred in the same region of Flanders, the Waasland.

Internationally, only blue varieties are accepted by the standard, in contrary to the Van Beverens, where other varieties are accepted. Also in contrary to the Van Beverens, the weight of the Blue of Sint-Niklaas is much larger, up to 12 lb (5.4 kg) indicating resemblance to the Flemish Giant.

After the decrease of pelt-saling and fur-industries in the region (and the world) the breed became almost extinct, as it was not popular as a pet or meat-rabbit. Only a few European breeders in Belgium and France are left.

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Appearance

The American Sable is a result of Chinchilla rabbit crosses. Sables are identical to Chinchilla rabbits in body conformation, but their coats are colored differently. The head, feet, ears, back, and top of the tail are a dark sepia, while the coat fades to a lighter tan over the rest of the body, similar to the coloring of a Siamese cat. The breed's eyes are usually dark with a ruby hue.

Typically their weight can reach 7-10 lbs.

Demeanor

The American Sable enjoys the company of other rabbits. It is generally docile, spending most of the day sleeping. Typically they enjoy the companionship of their owner, but on their own terms. When distressed, the American Sable will make a grunting noise or will, like many other breeds, thump its back foot on the ground in an attempt to scare whatever it is that is bothering them.

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The American Fuzzy Lop is a rabbit breed recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). It is similar in appearance to a Holland Lop. However, the American Fuzzy Lop is a wool breed and will have wool similar to the Angora breeds, although the wool will be of a short variety.

History

The background of the American Fuzzy Lop is interwoven with the history of the Holland Lop. When first introduced, the Holland Lop rabbit was only available in solid colors, and some breeders wanted to add the broken pattern to the Holland Lop gene pool. To do this, they bred their Holland Lops to English Spots. While they achieved the goal of producing broken pattern rabbits, they failed to keep the rollback fur the Holland must have. The offspring instead had the flyback fur of the English Spot. The breeders then bred Holland Lops to French Angoras, a breed that has a very gentle rollback coat. The result of these manipulations was that the wool gene was also introduced into the Holland Lop gene pool and a Holland with long wool was occasionally found in Holland Lop litters. These were generally sold to people who were enchanted with a small wooled lop-eared rabbit.

The pioneer American Fuzzy Lop breeders, including Patty Greene-Karl and Gary Fellers of the east coast and Kim Landry and Margaret Miller of the west coast, noted the marketability of the fuzzy Hollands. Patty Greene-Karl is credited with realizing that the "fuzzy" gene was recessive, so that mating two Holland Lops carrying this gene resulted in a certain percentage of the offspring (theoretically 25%) with wool. Patty decided to develop these rabbits as a new breed, named the American Fuzzy Lop. After working for four years on the development of Fuzzies, she presented her rabbits to the ARBA for the first showing of the new breed at the 1985 ARBA Convention in Houston, Texas. Three separate standards for wooled lops were received from three different individuals. The original standard called for a maximum weight of 4 ¾ lb with the ideal weight of 3 ¾ lb, a rabbit designed to have the body type, ear carriage, and size of a Holland Lop, combined with a short, easily maintained wool. At the 1986 ARBA Convention in Columbus, Ohio, the American Fuzzy Lop was presented for its second showing, and again passed. At its third showing at the 1987 ARBA Convention in Portland, Oregon, the ARBA Standards Committee did not approve the breed. They stated a lack of uniformity from one animal to another. A new working standard was written by Jeff Hardin at the request of Patty, which was accepted. The revised standard basically described a wooled Holland, calling for a maximum weight of 4 pounds, and an ideal weight of 3 1/2 lb In 1988, ARBA requested only the breed sponsor be allowed to bring her Fuzzy Lops to Convention in Madison, Wisconsin because of limited cage space. The American Fuzzy Lop had to pass that year to become a recognized breed or else its proponents would have to start the procedure all over again. Fortunately, Patty’s presentation passed at this Convention, and the American Fuzzy Lop became a new recognized breed. In 1989 in Tulsa, Oklahoma, Helen McKie's "Herbie" was selected as the first Best of Breed (BOB) American Fuzzy Lop at an ARBA Convention. Herbie’s picture graced the ARBA Standard of Perfection, 1991-95, representing Fuzzies well but only the American Fuzzy Lop presented by Patty was granted a working standard.

Appearance and Personality

The American Fuzzy Lop resembles the Holland Lop with the exception of its wool. The American Fuzzy Lop weighs 3.5 - 4.0 pounds as an adult. They have a very compact body, that appears very muscular. They come in most of the recognized ARBA colors. The ears of the American Fuzzy Lop do not stand erect, but rather lop along the side of the face. They have a short and flat muzzle similar to that of a bulldog.

American Fuzzy Lops are shown in two classes based on their color pattern. They come in a variety of colors. Solid color patterns are shown together at ARBA shows, while broken pattern (color patches broken up by white fur) are shown together.

American Fuzzy Lops are an active, playful, social breed with lots of personality. They enjoy the attention of their owner, as well as the companionship of other rabbits.